Adriano De Souza

Duranbah crowd.

Kelly Slater.

Slater.

Again.

Kelly Slater with model.

(joke: I'm thinking of renaming this page The Kelly Slater Show)

News from Hawaii:

From CNN.Com: Sewage spill threatens Hawaii's famous beaches : 'What we feared has happened'

If it can happen in paradise, can it happen in your backyard?

Courtesy of Surfline.com

TOXIC NIGHTMARE ON THE SOUTH SHORE
Giant sewage spill fouls Ala Moana and surrounding spots

The big news amongst surfers and environmentalists on Oahu is the recent catastrophic raw sewage spill emanating from the Ala Wai Canal. The canal, which feeds smack dab into the lineup at Bowls, is literally defecating into the ocean. Over 50 million gallons of the putrid slosh is contaminating beaches and surf spots between Sand Island and Diamond Head, putting a skidding halt to all ocean activities except boating for weeks. Some swimmers and surfers have chanced infection and ventured into the water. Reports are many are now suffering from gastrointestinal infections.

Adding to horror, is the report of a man falling into the Ala Wai Boat Harbor and contracting the dreaded Necrotizing Fasciitis, better known as the "flesh-eating bacteria". 34 year old Oliver Johnson, who happens to be an avid surfer, somehow wound up falling into the feces caked marina after a night of partying. Having not thought anything of it, Johnson pulled himself out of the water and went home. Four days later he lies at death's door, having had one leg amputated, and facing the likelihood of having the other 3 limbs taken off as well. The bacteria has bloated and mutated his body to such an extent that his friends did not recognize him. Besides turning his tissue into Jello, doctors say that the combined ravages of the bacteria, pneumonia, and septic shock are causing acute organ failure. The prognosis for Johnson is grim.

Unbelievably, State officials are removing pollution warning signs from Waikiki beaches just a mile or so from the canal "orifice". They assess the threat to be abating because of the emergence of the sun, days of natural degradation, and the SSW swell breaking up the fecal bloom. They also deny any connection between the spill and Johnson's illness. Between the Mayor Mufi Hanneman (who endorsed the dumping), his Department Of Health "experts", and State biologists there has been a lot of finger pointing, short sightedness, and dismissive attitudes. They move to the rhythm of the tourism drum, and that beat tells them to downplay the threat, and open the beaches back up quickly. Maybe they should ask Oliver Johnson and his family whether it's safe to go back into the water.

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From friend on Oahu:

After class today I went to bowls to sit and watch the surf while I waited for my wife to get off work. It was quite odd to sit there watching empty surf from Kaiser's to Bowls. There was one Japanese guy who paddled out despite being told not to. Later a couple of 15/16 year olds went snorkling and didn't bother to read the signs until AFTER they got out and showered. Nevermind that they passed 3 warning signs in plain sight along the way.

The guy that fell in got cut up trying to get out and rather than seek immediate medical attention, went home to sleep off his drunk and didn't see the doc until he started getting symptoms. By that time it was too late for him. They have already amputated one leg and there is concern that they might have to take the other as well as both arms. If he's lucky he'll die soon. Poor guy.

Pops on down to Diamond Head seem to be picking up more and more people. Diamond Head never got empty because of the spill. Crappy waves yes, spill no. Anyway, it will be at least a couple more weeks before I consider going back out to canoes or queens. I won't be at Kaiser's or bowls for at least a month. Fortunately the surf is not all that special right now so that keeps the pain down.

So yeah. If the sign says no swimming due to poo poo water, stay dry. It's not the big @ss shark that will get you, it's the tiny 1 cell sucker.

a hui hou, J

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From e-mail:

Paradise has a schedule....

I always thought that was odd about Oahu, but the ups and downs, occasional hassles, and ultimate prize are what make it worthwile. Not surfed in awhile...record rain for 6 weeks...filthy water...recently joined the rat race (55 hrs/week)...so I gotta go today...Beautiful in Waikiki, but no surf..N. Shore should be back on track...up the hill....its fucking raining and windy..I'm commited..it's shit everywhere..stop at the park. NOBODY OUT AT PIPE!..Must be dead cows in the water...a little brackish..like E. Coast color..people out Rockies way..Lifeguard says its ok..Waves 2-4...This spot has a whole different vibe when fewer people in the water..always has reminded me of Spanish House concerning the actual beach, sand, and somebodys backyard kind of thing..But NOBODY OUT. I am extremely rusty..I don't want to start my comeback at Fucking Pipe..There's no Choice..I have it completely alone for 2 hours...the usual..couple of shacks, dragged across the reef on cleanup sets, minor abrasions, and good conditions with sun..Meet a couple of spinners on the beach afterwards...I always knew there was something difficult about this place...But rare days make it a dream..Rock On.

Brad